Villages, Ruins & Good Food

Notes and photos from places around the world that have villages, ruins, and good food. And $35 hotels... Also, wilderness 4x4 camping and backpacking.

Saturday, April 11, 2009

Canyonlands 2009

Bob and Jonathan did the White Rim in our modern SUV. The truck did fine but we took a beating from extreme wind and unpleasant cold.

See trip notes at the end.

On our first hike, we ran into a bighorn sheep, first in our experience.

Our camp at Murphy. We searched and searched for a tent that could handle high wind but permitted sitting inside at a table. The tent worked OK, but at this camp, one of its poles was bent by a 60-mph gust at 3 am. The best bet for the White Rim is a robust 4WD camper with a low profile.

Tne Ancient People (pre Hopi and Navajo) erected this signaling station on top of a butte; worth a visit
Notes on the White Rim:
This is the best 4WD excursion in the US, in our experience. 102 miles of amazing scenary. The guidebooks rate it as moderately challenging 4-wheeling. 99 percent could be managed in many passenger cars, but the remaining 1 percent would be prohibitive. There are a dozen or so steep, rocky sections the seriously challenge your traction and clearance.
For the best camping spots at the popular times (late spring and early fall), you have to reserve for this trip with the Park Service far, far in advance.
Plan your trip with a lot of time for hiking; camp at least 3 nights. Plan on a driving speed of about 15 mph on the average.
Be prepared for wind! You must have a place to shelter that is seriously wind-proof or you will be utterly miserable.

Sunday, September 21, 2008


The Kitties

Sooz's Cookbook, in full, to download or view

South Bay restaurants

Pictures from the legendary 1982 NBER expedition to China

Bob & Sooz trips
Venice and Rome, June 2008
Este, June 2008
Mykonos and England 2007
Portugal 2006
Jordan and Syria 2005
North Africa 2004
Bali 2003
Italy 2002
Morocco 2001
Angkor Wat 1996

Dr. Bob's trips
Minneapolis bridge disaster, 2007
Italy, fall 2006

Spring Desert trips

Backpacking trips

Offspring trips

Kauai with Jonathan, Mia, and Chris, August 2008
Kauai flowers

Our Cats

Here we provide photos and videos of the cats, so Sooz can stay connected while she is away from them.

This video shows how the cats interact with each other, after living in our peaceful household for 7 years.

Monday, September 1, 2008

Lake Basin and the Old Muir Trail. August 2008

The modern Muir trail follows the south fork of the Kings River to its headwaters below Mather Pass, crosses the pass, and descends the Golden Staircase, the last-built part of the modern trail. Prior to the construction of the Staircase in 1938, the trail went down the south fork from Pinchot Pass, then north over Cartridge Pass, down Cartridge Creek, then to rejoin the modern route along the middle fork of the Kings. Just north of Cartridge Pass is beautiful Lake Basin, now missed by the Muir trail. This trip took us to the basin via the remnants of the old trail, which receives just enough use to serve as a useful route into the basin. See the end of this post for trail notes.

Our party was the same as in 2006: Jonathan, friend Chris, and Bob. Our itinerary:

Day 0: Drive to Taboose Creek and camp in 98-degree heat and wind. Not as bad as it sounds.

Day 1: Hike up about 4500 vertical feet and 6 miles of trail along Taboose Creek

Day 2: Over Taboose Pass, 11,400 feet, down to the south fork of the Kings, south on the modern Muir trail for half a mile, then continue along the south fork to camp at an unnamed lake halfway up to Cartridge Pass, at 11,000 feet.

Day 3: Over the pass, 11,700 feet, camp in early afternoon at the lake in Lake Basin closest to the pass, then explore the basin without packs for the afternoon.

Day 4: Back over Cartridge Pass and Taboose Pass, camp just over the pass.

Day 5: At the car at noon and drive home in time for real food.

Ready to go

Taboose Canyon

Upper Taboose Canyon

Taboose Pass, 11,400 feet

Looking west from Taboose Pass, into the Canyon of the South Fork of the Kings River

Dusk at our second camp, at the lake halfway up Cartridge Pass

Lake Basin

Looking south from the approach to Cartridge Pass

From our camp at the lake halfway up Cartridge Pass

Just above the lake


Jonathan with map during our route-finding puzzle

Looking north from Cartridge Pass into Lake Basin

Looking down the chute from the pass

Chef Jonathan in Lake Basin

Nightfall in Lake Basin


Looking up the chute at Cartridge Pass on our return

Arrow Peak

Dawn on the day out

Trail notes:

The standard source for off-trail info is R.J. Secor's The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes, and Trails (Google "Secor Sierra"), but the old Muir trail is too easy to merit any useful information in that book. The location of the old trail is correctly marked on the 7.5 minute quad, Mt. Pinchot. Do not even think of taking this route without that map!


It's easy to find where the old trail leaves the new Muir trail, just north of the point where the new trail crosses the south fork after descending from the junction with the Bench Lake trail. The Park Service has put up a couple of barriers to prevent JMT hikers from descending the south fork. The old trail is easy to follow down to the point where the first of three big boulder fields comes down to touch the river. At this point, the old trail crossed the river to avoid the boulders, but that part of the old trail is impassable because of a major blowdown of the trees on that side. You must stay on the north side of the river.

The best route seems to be to stay as close as possible to the river on its north bank. You can pass the first boulder field on a trail, but you will need to cross boulders for the second and third. In between, faint use trails come and go.

There is a marker in the forest where the trail turns north to ascend Cartridge Pass. If you can't find the marker, follow the route on the topo and you will eventually find the switchbacked trail, which is well marked up to the halfway lake.

The next trick is to find the trail north of the lake. We lost a lot of time in careless route-finding here. Again, follow the route on the topo with care and a compass and you will find another well-marked trail. We never use GPS but it would have saved us a lot of time. The trail will take you over the pass and down a steep chute to Lake Basin, where route-finding is easy.


Make your way to the highest lake in Lake Basin, below the pass. The chute carrying the trail is obvious. After ascending and descending the pass, go to the far end of the halfway lake and search for the trail down to the bottom, using the route on the topo. Stay close to the north bank of the river when you reach the bottom. Search for the trail at the bottom of the east-most boulder field and proceed to the new Muir trail.

Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Kauai, August 2008, with Jonathan, Mia, and Chris

Video of the Spouting Horn

Video of Jonathan and Mia cavorting in the surf at the Secret Beach

Allerton Gardens, part of the National Tropical Botanic Gardens

Golden bamboo from China

Ficus trees on a grand scale (used Jurassic Park)

The beach on the Rugged Napali Coast trail

Variable weather

The boistrous sea, near our secret beach

Jonathan and Mia at the secret beach

Rugeed conditions on the Rugged Napali Coast

No explanation for this interesting pole on the Waimea canyon trail

Distant waterfall in Waimea Canyon

At the secret beach